Boxed Wine: It's Not Just For Cooking

Filed in archive Wine News on September 5, 2007

I'll be brutally honest here: no matter how many industry reports tell me otherwise, no matter how many articles I read on the subject in beverage industry magazines, and no matter how many salespeople insist that the wine-in-a-box that they are trying to get me to put on the shelves is "outstanding quality," I have a hard time believing it. Don't get me wrong - I don't think it's terrible. It certainly has its purpose. If you're having a big party, it's a more economical way to purchase your wine. It's an option for outdoor venues that don't allow glass bottles. And it's fine for cooking. Now maybe I've turned into a snob (though I still can appreciate the jug of Carlo Rossi Burgundy, so I'm not sure that's totally the case), but I struggle with the wine-in-a-box movement. Other people, however, seem to be catching onto it.

From The Daily Herald:

I'd choose a carton of French rabbit, for instance, over many bottled wines any day. French Rabbit Chardonnay is crisp and clean; the pinot noir has bright berry flavors and silky texture; cabernet sauvignon offers savory plum, berry and cherry flavors and firm tannin. Unencumbered by excess oak and alcohol, all acquaint the drinker with flavors of their south-of-France growing region.

Maybe I'm tasting the wrong boxed wines, because to say that you'd pick a cask wine over any number of bottled wines is a strong statement. I know these casks are popular in other countries, and maybe it's jut the stigma they hold here in the U.S.: low-quality, mass-market wine. I'm always up for giving anything a try, so if there is one that you enjoy, please share it with me! Or, if you're curious like me, you can check out the taste test that Courier Post Online performed:

2005 Delicato shiraz, $18.99/3 liters: The aroma reminded us of raspberries, blackberries, cedar, clove, pepper and bacon fat. On the palate, we found flavors of black cherries, tea leaves, lots of tannins and alcohol and a deep, dark coffee finish. This wine was far more complex and better balanced than the others and an obvious choice as our favorite. We thought the high alcohol might appeal to certain tailgaters, too.

Non-vintage Almaden red sangria, $17.49/5 liters: We discovered scents of cherries and lemon/lime soda - like a Shirley Temple. In the mouth, we tasted orange gumdrops and a hint of cinnamon.

Non-vintage Pinot Evil pinot noir, $19.99/3 liters: The nose suggested lots of cherry, plum, fudge and cotton candy. It was very light bodied with watery flavors and a vinegary finish. The nose was promising, but the palate was meek.

2005 Free Range red Bordeaux, $29.99/3 liters: In the bouquet, we found scents of ashes, coffee, black cherries, stems and weeds. The wine showed stemmy flavors on the attack and green bell peppers on the finish. This wine did not compare favorably with the others.