wine
Cooking with Wine
Filed in archive Food and Wine by tammy on March 21, 2007
Cooking with Wine
I'm not much of a cook, but luckily, my husband is a wonderful cook. Even still, I'm a foodie and love to taste and give my two cents on the subject. He has now and then experimented with using wine in a variety of dishes, usually mainly seafood creating sauces and such, and one thing we have heard repeatedly on good old FoodTV is not to cook with a wine you wouldn't drink. That is the topic of this New York Times article that I think has some good, practical advice on the subject, and the author even goes so far as to do a taste testing of high end versus low end wines in various dishesIt Boils Down to This: Cheap Wine Works Fine:

Two weeks ago I set out to cook with some particularly unappealing wines and promised to taste the results with an open mind. Then I went to the other extreme, cooking with wines that I love (and that are not necessarily cheap) to see how they would hold up in the saucepan.

After cooking four dishes with at least three different wines, I can say that cooking is a great equalizer.

I whisked several beurre blancs - the classic white wine and butter emulsion - pouring in a New Zealand sauvignon blanc with a perfume of Club Med piña coladas, an overly sweet German riesling and a California chardonnay so oaky it tasted as if it had been aged in a box of No. 2 pencils.

Although the wines themselves were unpleasant, all the finished sauces tasted just the way they should have: of butter and shallots, with a gentle rasp of acidity from the wine to emphasize the richness. There were minor variations - the riesling version was slightly sweet - but all of them were much tastier than I had expected.

Next I braised duck legs in a nonvintage $5.99 tawny port that reminded me of long-abandoned Halloween candy, with hints of Skittles and off-brand caramels. Then I cooked a second batch of duck legs in a 20-year-old tawny port deliciously scented with walnuts, leather and honey. Again, the difference was barely discernible: both pots were dominated by the recipe's other ingredients: dried cherries, black pepper, coriander seed and the duck itself.

Wincing a little, I boiled a 2003 premier cru Sauternes from Château Suduiraut ("The vineyard is right next door to Yquem," the saleswoman assured me), then baked it into an egg-and-cream custard to see whether its delicate citrusy, floral notes would survive the onslaught. They did, but the custard I made with a $5.99 moscato from Paso Robles, Calif., was just as fragrant.

Over all, wines that I would have poured down the drain rather than sip from a glass were improved by the cooking process, revealing qualities that were neutral at worst and delightful at best.

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Permalink: Cooking with Wine
Tags: Sauternes  from  Château  Suduiraut  wine  vineyard  port  riesling  chardonnay  wines  celebrate+wine 
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