Cooking with Wine: Wild King Salmon with Macerated Cherries

Filed in archive Northwestern US Wines on June 10, 2008

Seattle-based author, Braiden Rex-Johnson shares her love of food and wine from the Pacific Northwest in her book "Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining." The book celebrates the combination of Native American, Asian, Latino, and contemporary elements that make up Pacific Northwest cuisine. Add the bounty of wine, game, fish, and produce found in Washington, Oregon, Idaho, and British Columbia, and the result is varied and delicious.

"Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining" shares 113 recipes from restaurants, wineries, and growers accompanied by 186 color photographs. Ms. Rex-Johnson and her publisher, Wiley Publishing were kind enough to share this recipe from the book with "Celebrate Wine" readers:

Wild King Salmon with Macerated Cherries and Smoked Almond Beurre Noisette
Varietal: Pinot Noir

This recipe from Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining was created by Kevin Davis, chef/owner of Steelhead Diner in Seattle's famous Pike Place Market. It showcases two of the Northwest's iconic ingredients: fresh, wild salmon and dried cherries. Pair it with another Northwest icon-Oregon Pinot Noir-which mirrors the lush berry, earthy, and smoky flavors in the dish.

Yield: Serves 4

1 cup dried cherries (Chukar brand preferred)
1 cup port or Madeira
Four 8-ounce Yukon River King salmon or other wild salmon fillets (center cuts preferred)
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter
1 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary, or 1/2 teaspoon dried rosemary, crumbled
Freshly grated zest of 1 orange
1 cup smoked almonds, lightly crushed (Blue Diamond brand preferred)

To prepare the Macerated Cherries, place the dried cherries in a heatproof nonreactive bowl. Bring the port to a boil and pour over the cherries. Cover with plastic wrap and steep for 30 minutes. Cover and refrigerate if not using immediately.

Prepare a medium-low fire in a gas or charcoal grill. Brush the salmon with the olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Place the fillets on the grill skin side down away from direct heat. Cook for 3 to 4 minutes, turn the fish, and cook for 3 to 4 minutes more (for medium rare) or to the desired doneness.

While the fish is grilling, melt the butter in a medium skillet over medium-high heat. Cook until the butter turns brown and gives off a nutty aroma. This is called beurre noisette in French, and translates as "brown butter."

Remove the skillet from the heat and add the chopped rosemary, orange zest, almonds, and Macerated Cherries (drained and patted dry) in that order, pausing between each addition and stirring gently to allow each ingredient to render its essence into the butter. Be careful when adding the first two ingredients, as the butter may sizzle and pop. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Place the salmon fillets on 4 dinner plates, top with the brown butter, and serve immediately.

Cook's Hint

Yukon River King salmon has a very high fat content and will tend to flame up if cooked too fast. It's always a good idea to have a water bottle handy, just in case. Don't leave the grill unattended at any time throughout the cooking process. Also, Chef Kevin has an easy way to prevent overcooking your fish. Simply turn the grill off when the fish is slightly underdone; this allows the carryover heat to finish cooking the fish.

^{Recipe from PACIFIC NORTHWEST WINING AND DINING: The People, Places, Food, and Drink of Washington, Oregon, Idaho, and British Columbia by Braiden Rex-Johnson(Wiley; October 2007; $34.95/hardcover)}