French Wine Classification Controversy

Filed in archive French Wines on September 4, 2007

We're all familiar with France's "Appellation d'Origine Controlee" wine classification system. When I purchase a bottle of French wine, I naturally assume that my Saint-Emillion is indeed from Saint-Emillion. Why would I ever doubt that? Well, after reading that nearly one-third of french wines might not even be from the regions the label states, I might second-guess myself next time.

From AFP:

According to France's UFC-Que Choisir consumer rights group, slack controls which saw 99 percent of all candidate wines awarded their AOC label in 2005, and pressure to produce higher yields, have led to a collapse in quality. . .

UFC said that one in three AOC bottles were now either of sub-standard quality or insufficiently linked to the region, questioning the impartiality of the AOC award panels made up of local wine professionals.

With more and more people around the world purchasing New World wines, French sales have been starting to slump. I have to imagine that this, too, will have an effect. On the one hand you can say that good wine is good wine. And that's certainly true. But on the other hand, I also like to know exactly what I'm buying and now I don't have quite as much faith that the labels are telling me the whole truth. What about you? Will you wonder about your Sancerre as you're sipping it, or does this not matter to you?