Respect For Savignon Blanc!

Filed in archive Wine News on July 9, 2007

Working in a wine store can be interesting because first, you read about the supposed trends of the season from the industry magazines and from your sales reps. And then you pay attention to what your customers are buying and realize that the "trends" don't always match up with actual purchasing habits. When I read this article on sauvignon blanc from Globeandmail.com, I found it interesting because according to the article, sauvignon blanc is a much maligned varietal. It is, however, one that I personally love and I've noticed my customers seem to be purchasing a great deal of it this summer. But apparently, not everyone feels that way:

In 2004, consumer behaviour researcher Steve charters, now a professor at the Reims Management School in the Champagne region of France, published a paper entitled, What is the problem with sauvignon blanc? An investigation of expert dislike of an aesthetic product.

Then in a column last year, Slate magazine's gifted wine essayist, Mike Steinberger, was unequivocal in his scorn. "Simply put, the grape is a dud, producing chirpy little wines wholly devoid of complexity and depth, the very qualities that make wine interesting and worth savouring."

I'm surprised he wasn't more critical, actually. Some experts might also have mentioned the grape's high acidity, a fatal quality in the eye of most sweet-toothed Americans in particular, and its tendency to develop vegetal characters when poorly pruned or picked early, a defect (though some say virtue) commonly likened to cat's pee.

Luckily, the article's writer feels that sauvignon blanc does deserve some respect:

It's time to cut poor sauvignon blanc some slack. The wine may not reach the heights of chardonnay or riesling, but it is a great partner for delicate, zesty, summertime favourites, such as grilled shellfish, asparagus and, yes, just about any dish involving goat cheese.

There are some great recommendations, too.