Sweet Justice for Beaujolais Sugar Scandal

Filed in archive French Wines on December 21, 2007

Bad news Beaujolais. Police suspect that up to 100 winemakers have been artificially increasing the alcohol content above legal limits by adding sugar to the wine. Earlier this month, five people were arrested in Villefranche-sur-Saone, capital of the Beaujolais region in eastern France, and released after questioning.

From Guardian Unlimited:

Police believe more than 600 tonnes of sugar was bought illegally between 2004 and 2006 by certain beaujolais winemakers seeking to raise alcohol levels. Middlemen bought the sugar from supermarkets just outside the region without receipts in order to leave no trace, then sold it on to winemakers. The traffic may have been common for up to 10 years.

What's the big deal, you might wonder? Winemakers use sugar for this purpose all the time. True. It is called chaptalisation and it is allowed by law. However, only a certain amount of sugar is authorized. Anything added above and beyond that is illegal. Winemakers must declare how much sugar was added to the wine. Until now the investigation has focussed on the people supplying the sugar (which was reportedly just bought in grocery stores), but now winemakers will be scrutinized. The Beaujolais region is struggling to compete with New World wines and this certainly doesn't help the region's reputation.