Jon Bonné of the San Francisco Chronicles weighs in the good and the not so good when it comes to Chardonnays from Burgundy. I often forget that more than just red wine comes from that region, so this was kind of interesting. The paper says it received 58 wines to examine. That must have been some wine tasting!

Wines were graded from 2 to 4 stars, with 4 being extraordinary, and none made it that high on the grading scale. Here are few of the higher stars from THE CHRONICLE'S WINE SELECTIONS - 2004 White Burgundy:

THREE STARS 2004 Olivier Leflaive Chassagne-Montrachet ($43) A village-level bottling from this consistently solid negociant-grower, whose cousin Anne-Claude runs the famous Domaine Leflaive. Here's a great introduction to Chassagne, aged on the lees for at least 15 months in no more than one-quarter new French oak. A balanced nose enhanced by smoke, honey and toasted almond. All the notes fit, with ripe fruit gripping the palate.

THREE AND A HALF STARS 2004 Domaine Bernard Moreau Chassagne-Montrachet Champs Gain ($65) Moreau's wines are typically aged in mostly old oak for at least a year, with no more than 30 percent new barrels. The result is classic old-fashioned Burgundy. This was the best wine we tasted. An opulent nose of paraffin and toasted spices, with a subtle gray minerality. Forceful, but balanced, flavors of lemon curd, kiwi, mango and green apple, with a perfectly tapered finish.

THREE STARS 2004 Domaine Bernard Moreau Chassagne-Montrachet La Maltroie ($65) Bernard and Francoise Moreau sent their sons Alex and Benoit around the world to learn winemaking before coming on board at this 19th century estate in the heart of Chassagne. A fantastic effort, despite a slightly muted nose -- more ripe pear and creamy apple, less smokiness. Good, intense fruit throughout, with lots of potential.